Last Hoo-rah

     I don’t know exactly how many massages and mani/pedi’s I had while in Asia, but it was the only time my feet even came close to feeling soft and looking that sharp - ever.  The days of beach bum luxury were dwindling fast.

      A quick ferry ride took us to the smaller, neighboring island of Koh Pha-Ngan. This island is famous for its full moon parties where tourists go ass-wild every full moon. It’s  also the place we had heard had all the tattoo shops. Months of travel and searching had not yet led me to a tattoo. We came close in Cambodia but it just didn't feel right.

     We walked by one shop and as I gazed inside I saw the artist was working on a painting. As we entered the walls were covered floor to ceiling in paintings and photos of tattoos. I knew this was the place. The artist Kanoksak Chucho was a total classic. I looked though several art books, showing him features of Thai architecture that interested me. He drew me up an original design, and laid it on me with the softest hand, he even threw in one of his bands CD’s for good measure.  We barely caught our ferry back but he earned one very happy customer.

     Back on the main island we averted disaster around the mythological ice bar. Our diversion led us to the gates of an arena. Inside we would witness about 10 matches of Muy Thai boxing.

     The cobra charming flute was whining and the crowd was ready, I know we were.  “Regular” boxing is usually entertaining to watch. This blew me away. It’s like a dance, the fighters sway and step to the beat of the music. Then like the cobra they brutally strike. Beautiful and intense. Only off-putting thing was they had little kids fight, that part we couldn't watch.Never the less, this sport is bad ass to say the least, and ever since seeing it I have wanted to learn myself. I've seen football games, bull fights, ice shows, etc., but this shit impressed me. 

     In our last hours we discussed how maybe we could just stay. Miss our flight maybe? Maybe we could open our own little smoothie stand for cash? Ultimately, we packed up for the long flight home. I damn near killed someone in the Taiwanese airport, but landing in San Francisco I couldn't be too devastated to be back home in this world class city. Thanks Asia for being so awesome, I know its not goodbye so until we meet again.....

Closing in: Touristy Tropical Paradise

The Thai beach island of Koh Samui seemed like a good place to spend our last days in Asia. Is it touristy? Yes. But we knew that going in and were game to stay somewhere luxurious after staying in various states of bug filled youth hostels throughout our trip.

 The hotel we stayed at might not have been the most expensive place I have ever stayed but it was without a doubt, the nicest. The Bhundhari Spa Resort and Villas left my sister and I smiling at each other like two kids on Christmas morning. Our room was beautiful; half of it was the bathroom actually. Double sinks with a huge vanity, delightfully designed indoor and outdoor showers (love the outdoor shower- like being naked in nature without the scary bugs and creepers) A huge tub with jets that spilled out to our private outdoor pool, we were in paradise.

Private pool and deck

The View

  Of course I was with my sister, but all you lovers out there check it out, and get some! That place must hold the key to eternal youth. Waking up to plush trees and tropical waters while I walked 5 ft from my bed to dip in the pool, I felt great. This place could have made a morning person out of me- almost.

 The town itself is less glamorous. It’s your typical tourist beach spot. Street shops selling shell necklaces and sarongs, lots of big night clubs and bars with flashing lights. It’s not going to be true cultural immersion but you will have a good time.

Run!! Did we sleep in our bikini's?

It's not 7-11, get it straight!

 While we were having a drink at some beach side lounge we met some other American’s. They got all excited when they realized we too were American, and proceeded to jubilantly tell us that “we” had just killed Osama Bin Laden. Literally they threw high fives, go team!! It was such an odd moment to me. I generally don’t jump up and down in glee when I hear someone’s been shot, not really my style. On the other side of the world and this is the thing that’s supposed to make me feel bonded to my compatriots. Odd. Very odd.

Angkor What?

Oh ya, I went there, I made the cheesy “Angkor what” joke- so sue me! Wait please don’t, it’s not trademarked is it? 

It's like a village but floating, get it?

If you actually do not know what Angkor Wat is, please allow me to tell you… Angkor Wat is a temple complex that is so important to the Cambodian people they put it on their flag. In fact it should be important to the world considering it is so damn old. Ya, it was built in the early 12^th century by the Khmer empire and still is the largest Hindu temple complex in the world (though it is currently used as a Buddhist site).

Ooooo ahhhhh, sunrise at the Wat

My sis and I spent three whole days touring this and all the surrounding temples.  We had a guide and chauffeur which may sound fancy but really was low key and a great way to meander through the temple sites as well as the town of Kompong Phluck. Our chauffeur we deemed “Jose” for his uncanny imitation of our cousin, and our guide was a kind spirited man who was enthusiastic about Cambodian history.  Many of the details are already lost but I do know there was a King  Suryavarman and a bunch of King Jayavarman’s. The way our guide repeated and repeated those names it stays with you.  …and in 13 hundred King Jayavarman……

Chister, that Ri diet is workin' for ya

Angkor Wat was used by ousted Khmer Rouge soldiers in 1979 as a sort of shield, knowing that people would not want to, say, bomb them there, and risk damage to the historic site. The best part of the temple is the extensively and ornately carved walls. There are hundreds if not thousands of Apsara dancers carved in bas-relief all around. There are also all sorts of Hindu stories and legends depicted; my fav was one showing the seven layers of hell. I wouldn't want to be banished to the worst, there’s some freaky and graphic stuff carved on those ancient walls, I’ll tell ya that!

It's not as lonely at the top as you might think

This guy shoulda known better

There were three other temples out of innumerous that we saw, that really stuck with me. The first Banteay Srei was a tiny little temple site compared to others, but the rose colored stone and ultra meticulous carvings made this the most beautiful.

Now, the other two sites can only be described as jaw dropping and surreal. Bayon is a marvel of mans creation and Ta Prohm is a marvel of the power of nature. 

Faces barely noticeable at a distance

 Bayon is covered in over 200 stone carved faces. It’s the kind of place you rub your eyes to be sure what you are seeing is real, and somehow amazingly it is. The 12^th century apparently had some brilliant and visionary minds. 

oh, you don't hang out at temples?

Ta Phohm, is not noted for the structure it’s self, but for the trees that have sprung out of and around literally the walls and roofs. Over centuries of neglect, we now see full grown strangler fig and other tropical varieties of trees curling around ancient walls. It’s a testament to nature and so fantastical that if a fairy or maybe a multiple headed elephant were to pop out, you would not bat an eye for what would seem fitting.