Its actually is all spotlights and ...

To get the morning started off right we felt some cultural activities were in order. So we headed out to explore some temples. We hit a few minor ones before making out way to the Grand Palace. Holy mother! This place is indeed grand! Have ya ever seen the inside of a Russian orthodox church? The grand palace has the same level of gilded, gold, sparkly, fabulousness but it’s all on the outside of the buildings not just within. On the inner side of the wall that surrounds the complex are intricate and beautiful paintings depicting different religious myths. If you are bold enough, you should also slip off your shoes (no one was gonna steal my sweaty sandals) to see the jade Buddha. He’s not very large but you can also admire the splendor of the interior. Be forewarned that to even buy a ticket to get in to the palace you have to have your knees and shoulders covered, this is the common respectful dress code for entering any temple throughout the region. Luckily, I was wearing a long shirt and was able to pull my skirt down to meet the length requirement, so what if I had to sag a little? I’d also like to take this opportunity to issue another warning. There are lots of men, some even trying to pose as officials or police who will tell you the palace is closed for the day. DO NOT listen to them. This is a common scam in which they take the chance to steer you towards other attractions likely to turn out to be a friend’s store. Last thing to look out for is monks. Women cannot touch or even sit next to a monk, so show some respect and stay at a distance.  My sister was very taken with the monks and at any sighting she would whisper to me enthusiastically “look- monkeys!!” Not sure they would have appreciated the nickname but hey she meant it endearingly not insultingly, so get over it. 

Monkeys.

 Hooray! Having a female traveling companion meant the shopping was on! Chatuchak, is a huge outdoor maze of stalls with everything from alligator head purses (very masculine indeed), to pets, to food, to cheap trinkets and clothes. In short it has a little of absolutely everything. It’s fun to browse but can honestly be a bit overwhelming. I preferred the indoor mall next door, JJ mall. Prices here are slightly higher than you would find along the streets but the quality is also higher. Plus, compared to back in Cali, most things still seem like a steal. The selection of wares was right up my alley and I bought several goodies. I like this mall because unlike several others which just have international chain stores, JJ has mostly all Thai made products.The days prize was some insanely fabulous, over the top heels which I would of course need to hit the town later that night. 

Paraphernalia.

All I ever wanted.

While we were going about our merry way exploring the streets of Bangkok we had no idea that another well known individual was doing the same. Not until we were back at home, did we discover that none other than Anthony Bourdain was there at the same time that we were. If we would have had this precious knowledge at the time who knows what we might of done in an effort to stalk him out?! Alas, by nightfall we made our way to the chic-y rooftop bar Sirocco. Sipping on a fruity cocktail we gazed out at the lit up view of city below us. Once again, we had no idea that the very bar we were lounging in would be used to shoot scenes from the movie “The Hangover 2.” Well, at least we kinda scored with that one but no introductions to the stars.

Bangkok Buddy Swap and Thai culture

 Sadly halfway through the week in Bangkok, Jon had to go home, back to work and back to ‘real life.’ I had a gut feeling it would be a turbulent flight and that feeling mirrored my sentiments about his departure. As Jon’s plane was leaving my new travel buddies plane was just touching down.  Welcome to Southeast Asia Chister!! Mari was of course exhausted upon arrival, but what kind of sister would I be if I let her stay in and sleep it off? No, we didn’t go buck wild that first night (lucky for her I was feeling particularly generous) but we did get her some Thai food and beer and ended up meeting some Thai friends. Funny how two girls attract more company in a hr. than a couple does in 3 weeks. Language barriers can be hard but alcohol is the international language and soon we were miming our way through conversation. Around 1 am I let Mari off the hook as I could see her start to fade and I knew she would need to be ready to explore the following day. So, home we went with dreams of the city before us.

Hair show winner

Spicy yumminess

Hello purdy lady.

Thailand gets my vote for most attractive females. There is a certain look that I am referring to and it’s distinctive to the area. Light golden brown skin, wide cheekbones and large ears make for a charming combo. Something in the demeanor also lends to this attractiveness. There is an underlying male centeredness to the culture that is hard to pin down exactly. In many cultures around the world women are submissive to men. No different in much of Asia, but in Thailand it’s done in a different way. There is this serving you with a smile and genuine sense that their greatest desire is to make you happy.  I’m not trying to generalize that a Thai women’s greatest joy is to serve but the vibe you get, is unique here.

Long live the king

Another thing you can’t avoid noticing is the King. He is more than a figure head with less power than a president. King Bhumibol Adulyadej has reigned for over 50 years and the people, well , they adore him. He is all encompassing around Bangkok. Large framed photos hang off buildings and altars in his honor line boulevards. At first I thought this guy must be super big headed, but Dan and Duong assured me otherwise.  Supposedly, he is quite the humanitarian. He visits far off towns and villages, walking among the people intently listening to any and all burdens they care to share with him. He then takes their pressing issues to parliament where he pleaded their causes, trying to persuade a change on their behalf. The Thai people see him as a hero, quite close to a living saint. This knowledge but mostly his friendly looking smile made me think he was a good guy. I guess I’m a fan of the King too you could say. 

Why is this here? Um hello Mangosteens are delish!

Brother across the seas

 As my sister and I roamed the streets exploring we happened to cross ways with a man holding a plastic bag filled with soda and a straw popping out. This very ordinary man to most might not have caused a second glance. Others may have felt it very odd to see someone drinking soda out of a bag. Our response was of immediate recognition and nostalgia. As kids this style of soda sippin' was reserved for our trips to visit Granny in Mexico. The glass bottles are recycled and are of value to the vendors, so when you by a soda they pour the contents into a bag and as if you had ordered 'take out' that's what you walk away with. This fantastically simple and non consequential viewing was happy. Feeling something so familiar when so far away from home is a moment in which you can relish the fact that people are just people. These small similarities are our bond. We are all humans and if we try to see it, we are often times more the same than we are different.

Blingin' in Bangkok

 As we got in our dark pink cab (psh, you ride in yellow cabs?) out of the Bangkok airport and drove towards our friend Dan’s house a wave of happiness washed over me. You could smell and even feel it in the air; we had landed in a tropical country.  The scenery immediately reminded me of Mexico, and you know how that melts my heart. Some people say ‘I try to see the good in people.’ I say ‘I try to see the Latino in people.’

The 'Diva' ride. The only ride.

        Anyhoo, as we drove through the streets, kids and even a few adults were playing with buckets and water guns. Anyone who crossed their path was going to get it. What might you rightfully ask was going on? Songkran of course, or Thai New Year. Not a single person could tell me the exact significance of this New Year water fight. So I had to speculate it was some sort of washing the slate clean for a fresh start to the coming year type thing, or maybe it’s just for some down home fun! We arrived on the last day of the festival so the partying and water fighting had worn down and only the dedicated remained.  As soon as we unloaded our luggage, I insisted we take a look around and get in on the action. After walking no more than a few blocks we approached what looked like a rowdy crowd.  In the blink of an eye I was grabbed by the arm (to prevent fleeing of course) and several milky buckets of water were poured over my head. How dare they, we were unarmed! The milkyness of the water initially made me raise a brow but no cause for alarm it was just talcum powder. You may have to worry however if you are in a part of the city or country where they really go wild because you will be ingesting water like it or not.  I guess it’s a fair trade, party in a far away land and pay by way of muddy belly for a few days.  Just before stepping in to our evening’s meal I wrung out my hair and dress in an attempt to look decent after several drenchings, not sure I succeeded...

They get close, not happy ending close but close enough.

Our gracious host Dan and his gf Duong.

Its healthy, go ahead-indulge.

Yummy eats near Ekkamai BTS

Many people’s experience of Thailand is one of an anything goes party paradise.  Men rally in the fact that Thai women always smile at them and many are available for whatever type of company you might chose. Stories definitely had me imagining a Tijuana type playground of debauchery. While all those stories are true (read em- sleaze fest!) and if you seek you will find, I saw relatively little of this aspect. Our guide Dan an American implant in Thailand has lived there around 6 years. His girlfriend is from an upper class Thai family and as such he showed us that side of Bangkok living, only the high brow! The first stop was fifteen dollar foot massages followed by thirty dollar couples massages. The week spent in Bangkok was filled with more spa services than I get in a whole year at home and probably all for the cost of only one or two!  The places he took us were on the higher end, I never imagined I would be eating caviar and foie gras at an upscale hotel on my visit, but there I was.  Daniel was of the opinion that with the heat and dirty streets one could maneuver the sky train to never touch the street or leave the air conditioning. That’s definitely one way of experiencing it, but I was antsy to get down and smell the people.

Alright kid, you're not half bad.

Why hello! I didn’t mean to scare you off; Shanghai does in fact have a few gems for all different palates. The aquarium is awesome. They have an impressive fresh water collection that had me questioning why I thought lakes were safer to swim in than oceans. Plus, what aquarium would be complete without an escalator that drops through a viewing tunnel, an albino turtle and a crazy saw fish friend? 

That eye is freaky!

Since Shanghai is divided in two by the Huangpu River, you will have to find transportation to cross to the opposite side. There are a few options but why take a 30 cent ferry when you could experience the BUND SIGHTSEEING TUNNEL, oooo ahhhhh. It’s like the twilight zone, and you can see it here for free (don’t say I never did anything nice for ya)!

 The sightseeing highlight was 50 Moganshan, art district. It’s out among random warehouses and not easy to get to; so if art isn’t your thing it may not be worth it. I thought it was a total find. This small area is crammed full of galleries and artist studios. The walls are intentionally littered with graffiti aka street art which you don’t see anywhere else in China. It was lovely to spend the afternoon strolling in and out of different spaces with work ranging from ultra traditional to ultra modern. Finally my walking obsession has rubbed off on Jon and so we decided to walk our way back for a bit, than catch a cab. We were so pleasantly surprised. Among the random streets and alleys we found finally found the real flavor! Fresh fruits and vegetables for sale were laid out on blankets on the sidewalk. People were scurrying home for dinner on bikes and steaming who knows what was wafting out of restaurant doors filled with hungry patrons. I guess if you’re willing to explore you can escape the giant malls and skyscrapers. 

A thus far unmentioned (but believe me, more mentions to follow) delight is hotpot. If you have never had this, what rock do you live under? It’s the Asian version of fondue and it is delish! HaiDiLao, is a tasty chain that uniquely boasts of unparalleled service which my California sentiments did so very much appreciate. There’s no way you can go and not end up surrounded by a feast. Any sort of meat, veggie or noodle imaginable is available for your boiling pleasure in their flavorful broth. We tried duck blood at a friend’s recommendation, and have been craving it since! 

All the way to the top.

If you love delicious hand crafted cocktails, with muddling fresh ingredients and exotic liqueurs China will disappoint. It’s not like you can’t get a drink but what you think you are ordering is probably not what you are going to get.  Regardless after a nighttime stroll along the ‘Bund,’ Jon and I went to imbibe at Cloud 9 sky lounge on the 97^th story of the Jinmao tower. There is a two drink minimum per person and drinks are about twenty bucks each…expensive by almost anyone’s standard. Yet for a romantic night out with your lover, it’s worth it.  

Whaaaa? Where did all these snacks come from??

Bund

Pudong

Shanghaied in Shanghai

Shanghai is popularly thought of as one of, if not the most glamorous city in China. But when Jon and I arrived it felt anything but. Everywhere we had been so far had almost immediately won me over. Not Shanghai. I didn’t see anything eye catching or exciting out of the gate. Jon and I hadn’t left each other’s sides in two weeks, the hotel was rejecting my credit card and we found out that it was not close to the action. Blah- it was our first day of burn out. The rest of that day was spent in our room, with way sub-par and way over priced room service and sleeping. By the way, I recommend staying in an American hotel chain when visiting China. Normally I’m all about shopping local but in this case customer service and regular hotel amenities just can’t compare. The Garden Hotel looked quality but goddamn it, if the staff weren’t like chickens running around with their heads cut off. I damn near slapped a few bitches, oh Jesus, damn near! 

Looks nice.

 (Ahem,*regaining composure*) I’m the type of person who can make a random dive bar filled with old men in the middle of nowhere somehow be the best night ever. So without fail we found some cool stuff in Shanghai, and even had a little fun. Still, if you have a choice, don’t put Shanghai on the top of your list. The French Concession district is quaint. There are lots of boutique shops and we had a decent meal. I don’t think we saw any French but we did see quite a few Russians, does that count? Yuyuan Bazarr is an ultra popular tourist market and really a tourist trap. The building is beautiful the wares are marked up sometimes a whopping 800%, no joke. Be prepared to pay or get your fierce bargaining game face on. Also don’t be duped by the long line for dumplings. It’s just tourists like yourselves who read it was the best, it’s not. The Peoples Square Park is a nice place to relax and if you are into upscale chain shopping the nearby Nanjing St is the place to make it happen. None of the afore mentioned make me jump for joy, but they are there, if you are. 

Yuyuen Bazaar

Peoples square

It’s hard to talk about China from a western perspective without mentioning there are some significant behavioral norm differences. Men will clear their throats noisily and then aggressively spit the contents wherever is convenient for them. Women in the service industry can be cold, even…how do I put this gently…rude? No waitress will ever cheerfully ask how you’re doing tonight. It’s more like ‘what do you want,’ and plates getting plopped on the table without a word. “How’s everything tasting here?,” ha, forget about it! Cashiers also have a different style. Whether you are buying a snack or a ticket you may get your change thrown at you or thrown on the counter. Really? Really? Ya couldn’t hand it to me? Nope, just take it in stride, all you can do is laugh.