It's Raining

Roswell was a smooth sail but there was more of New Mexico to be seen. The next stop was Albuquerque which stood hours away.

Imagine a tiny freeway stop of a town. Its occupants a handful of families who have lived there as long as anyone can remember. Their humble businesses barely keeping them afloat but somehow they always pull it off. Paint flakes off rusted vehicles strewn recklessly in the tall grass. 

The birds stir on the wire overhead. Those restless birds and the barely palatable humidity hanging in the air, you know something’s about to happen.  A fear rises in you then, that abandoned motel is looking ominous. Could that uneasy feeling be coming from a murderer within its walls? 

You shutter and retreat to the safety of your car, pulling your sweater tight around you. Let’s keep going you say, not as a commentary on life –even though it is. 

Your car pulls out back on to the freeway and suddenly the sky darkens. You roll down the window to breathe in that heavy air and just then the droplets start to hit your windshield. They come slowly first, then start to fall in heavy sheets. A flash of light illuminates the whole sky, and is quickly followed by that low rumble that shakes the earth. Over and over again it strikes.

Inside the car is silent, the two of you just glance at each other, hands intertwined. Then suddenly there is a sense of urgency to reach your destination. 

To be caught in that thunderstorm driving though a landscape such as that which exists in New Mexico is a thing of dark beauty and romance. Those moments you cannot plan only relish. 

Alien Encounters

Post SLC, the next destination was to be New Mexico. I had to admit that this locale had a little more allure than Utah, but then again I did enjoy my brief stop there. So, who knows what was in store for me, oh you know, besides aliens…

My accompaniment this round was an individual whom, really, I barely knew. Sure, let’s go on week long trip together that involves lots of driving! What could possibly go wrong? Too late now, the plane’s already off the ground, unless someone screams bomb.

What the hell does Roswell have to do with Dairy??

Heading down south from Albuquerque we drove towards our first stop: Roswell.  Queue creepy space theme music now. Yes! Just like you were thinking, Roswell is the town where in 1947alien’s crash landed!! I couldn’t wait to learn more about this infamous event.

It's true the chickens have mutated...

First pulling into the main drag of town I was off put by the collection of chain restaurants. I was imagining something a little more rustic. Alas, the town was ripe for the shooting! Pawing through the side streets there were gems of decomposing building, perfect for me to shoot my ongoing series of vintage signs –AmericanBeauty. Thank god.

We checked into the Budget Inn which admittedly from the outside looked a little outdated. The inside though was comfortable and clean and actually we would totally stay here again. The motel matched the vibe of the town we were diggin' it.

Not much to say about the food here, oh, except for the romantic brunch at IHOP, short stack special, that’s right! Nightlife also seemed absent but several locals pointed me towards Farleys restaurant. This was the IT spot; on the idea of TGI Fridays but with more edge and Budweiser. Bachelorette parties and hot dates all around!

So, now, let’s get down to the main event, y’all been waiting for.  THE UFO MUSEUM. First off, I don’t know where you, dear reader, stand on the issue or question of aliens, extraterrestrials, and life on other planets. I myself wasn't sure exactly where I stood on that line, BUT the evidence is compelling!

In the year 1947 aliens crashed onto a local mans farm property. There were living beings aboard that crashed vessel. They were taken to receive medical care. There were many witnesses, both local and military. The news released the story, and then the very next day the cover up began. Stories were retracted, witnesses silenced. The government officially denied what had been seen by many. Yet you can not erase what has already been drilled into memory. Many Drs., nurses and military personal kept these dark secrets to themselves in fear. However, in the last moments of their lives many were compelled to tell the true details of what they experienced to their spouses and children.  These deathbed confessionals were riveting. Why in your last moments would these be the tales you must tell? Because: the truth had to be told. BAM!

The Bitter Lake national wildlife refuge was a lovely place for an evening stroll into the sunset. It seems even the sun here had a message. It was reflecting back to us the truth of this town. This place does draw a number of anti government conspiracy theorists, good for eccentric conversation. I hope one day to return and relive what happened here so many years ago. Perhaps tell my own tale of odd things beyond our explanation in this life. 

The sun appeared to us in the shape of a UFO

SLC

This past summer (2012) I had the good fortune of my work sending me out to various states around the country.

As much as I have seen other parts of the world I lacked perspective on my very own country, something which I had mused about needing to remedy from time to time. When the opportunity to get to see it came, and on my company’s dime, I was stoked for the new experiences and insights to come.

First destination: Salt Lake City, Utah.

I was off to the land of the Mormons, hoping to have the added side effect of returning with four husbands in tote. As the plane descended on the Great Salt Lake, besides taking in the staggeringly striking scenery, my mind played out my brother husband fantasies....

First impression of the city I was pleasantly surprised at how pretty it was. It’s a small compact city set against an enormous mountain. The mountain gave off the  impression that I was in the Emerald City from the Wizard of Oz, not half bad.

An in flight recommendation had me off to Cafe Rio for some Mexican Food. I discovered this was a chain which I normally pass on, but after flying and driving I was hungry! This spot is a step up from Chipotle for sure, more hot options. My enchiladas weren't half bad, but I'm sure you could find more unique spots. Then again sometimes its hard to find more than burgers and diners in this and many parts of the country.

Just past SLC in the town of Riverton a sign caught my eye. Bombdiggitys is what it said (another noteworthy restaurant name witnessed: Guadalahonkey's), such a funny name, so I was curious. It's a fast food joint but their schtick is buffalo burgers not beef. I don't "DO" the whole beefy/buffaloy thing BUT I do "DO" the whole frozen custard thing. They lay it on ya full force with a overflowing treat that is the "frozen bomb"

For an inexpensive place to stay I hit up the Avenues Hostel, which was perfect for my needs, clean, friendly and cheap. Also about a 20 min walk from the main mamma temple.

Alcohol is a big issue here, it’s heavily regulated and until recently you needed a membership to even go into a bar. Beer that is sold is a weaker percentage unless it’s purchased in a state run liquor store which seem to never be open.

Work behind me, I was up for exploring this weird place. The hyper religion which is all around is something many people mentioned to me in passing, making it obviously significant to this town. Alternately, there is a scene that is the backlash to that. Punk and gay culture has a notably niche here. Disappointingly an attempted visit to a well recommended dyke bar the Paper Moon didn't work out. Neither did an attempt at hitting up a biker joint, I got stared down and basically ran out of there like I was fleeing the wolves.

Alternative coffee shops with shaved head girls strikingly contrast to the floral, conservatively dressed, mousy, make- up-less women around town. I usually try to respect my surroundings and in that spirit dressed slightly more conservative than is my normal taste. Yet I still felt like every person I passed was staring at me and generally judging me.

SLC is almost completely white. I think that may have helped my dark haired self stick out. As well as the fact I wasn't totting around 5 kids. I did as usual manage to find a few Mexican guys who had migrated out there for work.

Anyways, the vibe is the religious people see themselves as the good guys and everyone else is the bad. You can feel their scorn! I felt, for as pretty as this place was literally, I would not fair very well living here.

Of course, I had to tour the temple grounds (admittance into the actual main temple is not permitted by non members). There were tons of international tourists at this site as well as international docents. Honestly, this site was not to my taste, and I usually enjoy seeing places like this for the art. It left me walking away with a bad taste in my mouth.

After all that churchyness I needed to switch gears, I also wanted to get out of the city and see some nature around the lake. I chose to visit Antelope Island State Park on the Salt Lake about an hour outside the city. Great choice Cat. I do have the tendency towards feeling very emotionally moved by the landscape and this was no exception. The drive was beautiful and the island was just what I needed. I took a nice trek exploring the different sides of the island all of which were lovely. I got lucky and ended up seeing a whole damn heard of buffalo cross literally right in front of me. That’s some cool shit ladies and gentleman, some cool shit. Big beautiful majestic creatures and I could almost touch em’.  

Duende Delights

After finally telling you all about my Asia adventures I'm moving on to more current day to day adventures (especially food oriented) as well as filling in the gaps with more significant trips when the mood hits me. Alright here it goes:

Friday night, that means it's date night with my man. I was excited to get dolled up and go out after a month long lingering sickness that kept me relatively reclusive.

After a quick first stop over at Dogwood for a cocktail we headed to Duende. Duende means a fantastical creature that is between a goblin and a fairy. It’s also a modernist Spanish dance movement. Most importantly it’s a delicious restaurant. Is sounds douchy to say this but I’m just going to, Duende is supposed to be one of the “hottest” (sorry..ya douchy) restaurants in the east bay right now, and it did not disappoint.

The wine was yummy and unique, although without seeing a menu I can’t remember the exact varieties. We ordered two tapas the Pescado Crudo and the Sopa de Ajo as well as the fist listed Paella of the night.  

Easter weekend this soup had me praising Jesus for the taste-bud  delight. 

The Pescado Crudo came out looking like a tuna tar tar but there was a strong unexpected flavor to it. That flavor was Bottarga a cured dried roe that was mixed with mayonnaise creating a flavor like a very salty cheese. The Sopa de Ajo we both agreed was one of the yummiest things we had ever eaten, garlic, almond, avocado, urchin and total perfection. Our main dish was the rabbit, botifarra (pork sausage), clam and veggie Paella, the dish was very richly seasoned and more than enough for two people to eat. The only thing we could have skipped was the dessert, the banana ice-cream was a bit dry which sounds odd to say about ice cream.  

The service was friendly and the ambiance was dark and romantic. We will be revisiting this spot for our nicer nights out guaranteed, and I still have that garlic soup on the brain. Do not pass up on that one if you do get the chance. I love food, I love you, more food adventures to come! 

Last Hoo-rah

     I don’t know exactly how many massages and mani/pedi’s I had while in Asia, but it was the only time my feet even came close to feeling soft and looking that sharp - ever.  The days of beach bum luxury were dwindling fast.

      A quick ferry ride took us to the smaller, neighboring island of Koh Pha-Ngan. This island is famous for its full moon parties where tourists go ass-wild every full moon. It’s  also the place we had heard had all the tattoo shops. Months of travel and searching had not yet led me to a tattoo. We came close in Cambodia but it just didn't feel right.

     We walked by one shop and as I gazed inside I saw the artist was working on a painting. As we entered the walls were covered floor to ceiling in paintings and photos of tattoos. I knew this was the place. The artist Kanoksak Chucho was a total classic. I looked though several art books, showing him features of Thai architecture that interested me. He drew me up an original design, and laid it on me with the softest hand, he even threw in one of his bands CD’s for good measure.  We barely caught our ferry back but he earned one very happy customer.

     Back on the main island we averted disaster around the mythological ice bar. Our diversion led us to the gates of an arena. Inside we would witness about 10 matches of Muy Thai boxing.

     The cobra charming flute was whining and the crowd was ready, I know we were.  “Regular” boxing is usually entertaining to watch. This blew me away. It’s like a dance, the fighters sway and step to the beat of the music. Then like the cobra they brutally strike. Beautiful and intense. Only off-putting thing was they had little kids fight, that part we couldn't watch.Never the less, this sport is bad ass to say the least, and ever since seeing it I have wanted to learn myself. I've seen football games, bull fights, ice shows, etc., but this shit impressed me. 

     In our last hours we discussed how maybe we could just stay. Miss our flight maybe? Maybe we could open our own little smoothie stand for cash? Ultimately, we packed up for the long flight home. I damn near killed someone in the Taiwanese airport, but landing in San Francisco I couldn't be too devastated to be back home in this world class city. Thanks Asia for being so awesome, I know its not goodbye so until we meet again.....

Closing in: Touristy Tropical Paradise

The Thai beach island of Koh Samui seemed like a good place to spend our last days in Asia. Is it touristy? Yes. But we knew that going in and were game to stay somewhere luxurious after staying in various states of bug filled youth hostels throughout our trip.

 The hotel we stayed at might not have been the most expensive place I have ever stayed but it was without a doubt, the nicest. The Bhundhari Spa Resort and Villas left my sister and I smiling at each other like two kids on Christmas morning. Our room was beautiful; half of it was the bathroom actually. Double sinks with a huge vanity, delightfully designed indoor and outdoor showers (love the outdoor shower- like being naked in nature without the scary bugs and creepers) A huge tub with jets that spilled out to our private outdoor pool, we were in paradise.

Private pool and deck

The View

  Of course I was with my sister, but all you lovers out there check it out, and get some! That place must hold the key to eternal youth. Waking up to plush trees and tropical waters while I walked 5 ft from my bed to dip in the pool, I felt great. This place could have made a morning person out of me- almost.

 The town itself is less glamorous. It’s your typical tourist beach spot. Street shops selling shell necklaces and sarongs, lots of big night clubs and bars with flashing lights. It’s not going to be true cultural immersion but you will have a good time.

Run!! Did we sleep in our bikini's?

It's not 7-11, get it straight!

 While we were having a drink at some beach side lounge we met some other American’s. They got all excited when they realized we too were American, and proceeded to jubilantly tell us that “we” had just killed Osama Bin Laden. Literally they threw high fives, go team!! It was such an odd moment to me. I generally don’t jump up and down in glee when I hear someone’s been shot, not really my style. On the other side of the world and this is the thing that’s supposed to make me feel bonded to my compatriots. Odd. Very odd.

Angkor What?

Oh ya, I went there, I made the cheesy “Angkor what” joke- so sue me! Wait please don’t, it’s not trademarked is it? 

It's like a village but floating, get it?

If you actually do not know what Angkor Wat is, please allow me to tell you… Angkor Wat is a temple complex that is so important to the Cambodian people they put it on their flag. In fact it should be important to the world considering it is so damn old. Ya, it was built in the early 12^th century by the Khmer empire and still is the largest Hindu temple complex in the world (though it is currently used as a Buddhist site).

Ooooo ahhhhh, sunrise at the Wat

My sis and I spent three whole days touring this and all the surrounding temples.  We had a guide and chauffeur which may sound fancy but really was low key and a great way to meander through the temple sites as well as the town of Kompong Phluck. Our chauffeur we deemed “Jose” for his uncanny imitation of our cousin, and our guide was a kind spirited man who was enthusiastic about Cambodian history.  Many of the details are already lost but I do know there was a King  Suryavarman and a bunch of King Jayavarman’s. The way our guide repeated and repeated those names it stays with you.  …and in 13 hundred King Jayavarman……

Chister, that Ri diet is workin' for ya

Angkor Wat was used by ousted Khmer Rouge soldiers in 1979 as a sort of shield, knowing that people would not want to, say, bomb them there, and risk damage to the historic site. The best part of the temple is the extensively and ornately carved walls. There are hundreds if not thousands of Apsara dancers carved in bas-relief all around. There are also all sorts of Hindu stories and legends depicted; my fav was one showing the seven layers of hell. I wouldn't want to be banished to the worst, there’s some freaky and graphic stuff carved on those ancient walls, I’ll tell ya that!

It's not as lonely at the top as you might think

This guy shoulda known better

There were three other temples out of innumerous that we saw, that really stuck with me. The first Banteay Srei was a tiny little temple site compared to others, but the rose colored stone and ultra meticulous carvings made this the most beautiful.

Now, the other two sites can only be described as jaw dropping and surreal. Bayon is a marvel of mans creation and Ta Prohm is a marvel of the power of nature. 

Faces barely noticeable at a distance

 Bayon is covered in over 200 stone carved faces. It’s the kind of place you rub your eyes to be sure what you are seeing is real, and somehow amazingly it is. The 12^th century apparently had some brilliant and visionary minds. 

oh, you don't hang out at temples?

Ta Phohm, is not noted for the structure it’s self, but for the trees that have sprung out of and around literally the walls and roofs. Over centuries of neglect, we now see full grown strangler fig and other tropical varieties of trees curling around ancient walls. It’s a testament to nature and so fantastical that if a fairy or maybe a multiple headed elephant were to pop out, you would not bat an eye for what would seem fitting.